The employees were very good and combined the large pieces to one skid.

Checking the invoice being sure it is all there in the truck.

Who says you can't have a sawmill in the back of your Nissan.

The sawmill, the trailer, cant hook, 10 spare blades, engine cover, yup it's all there.

I still had room for more good stuff.

This sawmill is packaged like no other I have ever encountered. This is the power head packed within a steel angle frame.

As the instruction suggest, use the steel frame the parts were packed in to use as a platform to build on.

It is most important to keep the assembly level and square while bolting all parts together.

I had lots of room to build inside.

Looking good.

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Now supported by the leveling screw jacks.

Things are looking fine and assembly is going well.

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This is the back end .

This is the tounge end.

With the wheels and fenders installed, I rolled it outside.

The log loading winch and arm are in place at the side of the frame.

It didn't look so big when I ordered it on line.

I am very impressed with how easly the assembly progressed and the simple to follow instructions.

Lifting the mill head and placing it on the rails was a easy operation with electric hoist and 10 ton gantery.

Now with the saw head in place, lets see how easy it rolls along.

Drill the holes in the frame to accept the travel locking pins was simple and quick.

No problem moving the mill around with the lawn mower.

A close up look at the power head.

This is the first cut and yes it is a little log. The bigger logs will come later when I get the logs from the bush

I noticed what I thought was grease or some dirt on my log scale and it seemed to be getting worse.

When looking close I found the yellow paint and scale markings were being worn away.

The sharp edge of the scale indicator was rubbing against the scale and wearing away the paint and magnetic material. How am I going to fix that. Well first I rounded the inner edges of the plastic.

Still not satisified this would prevent a continued problem, I Machined the head of a ¼ 20 by ¾ " bolt and used LOCTITE 401 ® to glue a strong rare earth magnet to the machined flat "head".

Then drilled and tapped the Log Scale Indicator Bracket to except the ¼" bolt.

I cut a slot in the threaded end of the bolt to allow a slot screwdriver so the magnetic bolt could be easily adjusted to the correct depth distance.

Another view of the alignment and position of the magnetic bolt in the Log Scale Rear Indicator Bracket.

It is difficult to notice the rounded edge I filed on the plastic indicator in this photo but the rounded edge will be fitted towards the log scale.

With the bracket in place on the sawmill it is easy to adjust the Log Scale Bracket that it will not rub on the Log Scale Rear Indicator Bracket OR the Log Scale Indicator.

The Log Scale Bracket now glides up and down held in place by the magnet.
SIMPLE FIX.

How much water/soap is in the lubrication tank ? ?. Well, here is a cheap easy fix. I drilled a hole just above the flow control valve and inserted a piece of plastic tubing.

Then I simply took a couple of pieces of wire to hold the tubing above the level of the tank top. now with a quick glance, I know whats in the tank.
SIMPLE FIX.

In the training set up video and page 9 Fig. 8 in the instruction manual it indicates the feeder arm should push against the tooth behind the tooth that is to be sharpened.

The pusher arm or indexer arm is not locating the tooth to be sharpened, BUT the tooth behind the tooth to be sharpened.

This will sometimes cause the grinding wheel to completely miss the tooth.

And in this case grind too much of the tooth. I found that the wheel would miss 2, 3, or even 4 teeth completely then over grind the next 3 or 4 teeth.

I adjusted the indexer knob almost all the way to the end of its stroke NOTE PHOTO ABOVE to compare adjustment.

I thought the grinder wheel would make contact with the indexer arm but it will not.

As you can see here the indexer arm is placing the actual tooth to be ground with percision, the wheel will not touch the indexer arm.

The grinding wheel is just kissing the face of the tooth, this is the way it should look.

Using the Grinding Disc Profile Template is sometimes difficult to see the correct shape.

I place a WHITE paper towel or piece of paper behind with some good lighting makes it easier to see the correct shape of the wheel. This is very important

I had a problem with setting and holding the grind angle,

Is this set at 7° , 10° or 14° ? .

This tiny little dimple is to lock and hold in place the angle setting with the help of the knob tightning.

That little dimple is to set within one of these 3 holes two of which are almost an oval.

I threaded one end of a piece of 5/16" brass 8/32 and drilled the other end for a 3/16" handle, threaded end not shown here.

Then I located the tiny dimple into the 14°, 10° and 7° locations, locked in place then drilled holes through the arm and frame.

Holes were drilled in the arm to accept the bolt and the frame holes were threaded

With the sharpening unit reassembled and the angle set to 10° I can be sure the angle will NOT shift .

I was looking through my stash of stuff for 4 wheels that would take the weight and include bearings.

I found this Budgit 1000 pound I beam trolly that had exactly what I needed.

The bearings were in good shape, had grease fittings and a hardened ½" X 20 mounting axel, PERFECT.

I found some 1½" by 2" angle and cut it to 24" long two pieces, drilled half inch holes 2" from the end on the 2" side for the wheels.

The flange of the wheels will run on the outside of the sawmill rails.

Time to paint the wheels and let them dry while I cut and weld.

I found some 1 ½" by 2 ½" tubing that came off the same conveyor system I had scrapped years ago.
I welded the tubing to the centre of the 24" angle on the 1½ side.

I also welded 1½" by 4" angle to the top of the 36" tubing this will be bolted to the 3" channel iron between the tubing uprights.

This is the frame assembled, the top channel is bolted with 5/16" bolts to the angle that is welded to the top of the tubing upright pieces.

Just a view from the side, the 3" channel has been drilled to mount the winch with 3/8" bolts.

Brading the synthetic rope back into itself to make an eye, YIKES how am I going to do that?

Then I remembered it's a braided rope just like the chinese finger pulling toy, the harder you pull the tighter the braided toy would pull your finger. So I bent a clothes hanger into a loop with a bent end as a handle. I slipped a piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing onto the rope then through the slide hook then through the tubing again.

Slipping the wire loop through the centre of the braided rope to the vinyl tubing and poked the wire loop to the outside of the braid. Now tuck the loose end through the wire loop and pull the loose end all the way until the end slips out of the braid

Now remove the end of the rope from the wire loop and sliding your hand from the hook down the rope will smooth the braid and hide the end within the centre of the rope.

Now the more pull on the rope the tighter the tail will be held, COOL.

The 600 pound winch with the steel wire rope I want removed and replaced with the synthetic, by the way the synthetic rope is rated at 4000 pounds.

Very simple remove the cable clamp, discard the steel cable and install the synthetic.

Rope installed and looking good.

September 18 2020 was the first time I tried my new log positioning gantry (the third hand) once the log is placed on the bunks by using the loading ramps and winch , with the ramps removed I can roll the gantry to the centre of the log.

If the log is not sitting properly and wants to roll off the bunks before I have it positioned , the third hand will hold the log.

With a log larger at the butt end you may want to shim the smaller end to level the log before cutting.

In this photo I only needed to position the log centred over the bunks.

With the rope in the middle and lifting the entire log it is very easy to position the log along the sawmill bed with very little effort.

This is a Hemlock about 16 inches in diameter and too heavy for me to position without my
(THIRD HAND ).

This photo my assistant, Elizabeth, she is a sawyer in training.